In this post, I am going to cover the hiking gear I use in the field to get the shot, and remain comfortable in at or below freezing conditions. Before we get too into this topic, I want to put this out there - you get what you pay for. I admit, much of the gear listed below is expensive and for that reason, I want you to understand that it has taken me years to obtain what I use today. Trial and error. Buying, returning, exchanging, and everything in between. One consistent lesson I learned throughout the process was simply this: buy once, cry once. Yes, some things are pricey, and price is not always synonymous with quality. But if the right item for you costs a little more than the economy item, spend the extra few bucks for it. This is a process that is going to look different for each of us, but it is important to have what works best for you. If you have questions about anything listed below, reach out! I am happy to provide more details on any item if it helps you on your journey to the right gear.

To understand what I use, you need to understand my hiking style. My hikes are predominantly technical. I am off trail and navigating challenging terrain in all conditions. Consequently, I prioritize warmth-to-weight ratios and performance in much of my equipment. When I am outdoors in the winter, I typically start my day well before sunrise and remain in the wilderness all day, returning after sunset. Sometimes I may stay out late into the evening shooting the night sky. What I use allows me to do so, and everything listed below is what I use to help me achieve exactly that.

I made a podcast episode about this topic too, you can check it out here!

THE IMPORTANCE OF COMFORT

Let’s start with why it is important to be comfortable while you are out there. First, and most importantly, safety. Frostbite, hypothermia, and all the terrible things that come with it are no joke. Using the right equipment for the conditions is critical to making sure you not only enjoy your winter hike, but that you survive it.

For photography, staying comfortable is essential to your creativity. You want to get into that flow state of mind I discussed a few weeks ago when we reviewed planning out your year ahead. If you are feeling cold, wet, and miserable, the only thing you are going to be focused on is getting warm. Rightfully so! However, that means missed opportunities, a hike cut short, and possibly even a trip. I cannot stress this enough - spend the extra time (and money) researching what works best for you. There are a lot of options out there, and even more ways to get lost in them all. Finding the hiking gear that suits your needs and requirements is essential. Staying warm keeps you focused. Staying focused keeps you in that flow state. That flow state leads to your best images!

THE DANGER OF SWEATING

As you consider gear, do not look for a one item does all piece. A super thick coat that you are going to wear over a tee shirt as a do it all item is not the answer most people think it is. You can’t remove layers to cool down if you get too warm. If you can’t take off layers to cool off, you are going to sweat. If you sweat, things can get dangerous really fast.

Sweating can lead to hypothermia. When you are sweating and the cold wind hits, perspiration will rapidly evaporate, chilling you. Even worse, cotton and feather down lose their insulating qualities when wet. So now, you are cold, your damp coat is not keeping you warm, and the sweat is actually causing the coat to freeze. See how this becomes a compounding problem? You want to limit perspiration and keep it away from both your skin and that outside air. When it is cold outside, if you are wearing wet, sweaty clothes, you are going to lose heat even faster. So I layer in winter, and recommend it as the only way to approach winter hikes and cold weather outdoor pursuits.

I typically wear a merino wool base layer top and bottom, a mix of insulating mid-layers, and a shell. We will talk more about what and why here shortly, but the important thing to recognize here is that there are multiple parts to the system. When I’m hot, I can shed my shell and unzip a mid layer for some ventilation. If I am still too hot, I can take a mid-layer off entirely to help cool down. If it is raining or snowing, I still have the option of putting the shell back on to stay dry. This is the beauty of layering, and why it is so important! We have control over how warm we are, or how cool we are. This is also why I am more partial to winter adventures over summer adventures, but that is a topic for another time!

BACK UP EQUIPMENT

Bring extra everything. Leave it in your car, your hotel, wherever you are staying as a backup, just in case. Things happen. Sometimes they are purely out of our control. Having a backup plan means you can continue on your adventure and stay safe out there. I typically keep an extra hat, pair of gloves, dry socks, and spare boots in the car, just in case. Anything can happen, but if you lose a glove, drop your hat, or accidentally dunk your foot into cold water, you can get right back into the action quickly and safely, then dry out or replace items when you get back.

TEST BEFORE YOU GO

As you prepare for your adventure, get out there and test your gear if possible. Try different layer combinations. Familiarize yourself with your equipment and get accustomed to working with it in the field. Maybe the gloves you have cinched up weirdly, or your socks are not warm enough. I spent a lot of time walking around my local parks, testing things out to get a feel for what was required at different temperatures and conditions. This way, I knew what I needed when I was actually out using it. I highly recommend you do this, if for no other reason, just familiarizing yourself with your gear and knowing if it works before you go.

THE LAYERING PROCESS

When we layer our clothes, we are essentially trapping air between each layer, which acts as insulation to maintain our core body temperature. It also allows us to adjust easily on the fly to changing conditions, adding or removing layers as needed throughout the day. Layers that are compressible, packable, and lightweight are the goal here.

Key Layers:

• Base Layer - Moisture Management.

  • This is often our lightest layer.

  • This should be moisture wicking. Clothing that is moisture wicking keeps moisture away from the skin, keeping you dry and preventing chills.

  • Merino wool is the best choice for base layer material, followed by synthetic fibers (Capilene, polyester, or nylon). Avoid cotton at all costs. When cotton gets wet, it immediately loses its insulating properties and can become dangerous.

• Mid Layer - Insulation 

  • This is often our second lightest layer. 

  • This layer provides warmth and acts as the insulation.

  • This layer can include multiple pieces and does not have to rely on one item.

• Shell Layer - Protection.

  • This is often the most important layer in winter. 

  • This layer needs to be waterproof, windproof, and made from high-quality materials to withstand snags, brushes against trees and rocks, and the cold. 

  • One of the most popular and well-known materials is GoreTex.

UPPER BODY

For the upper body, there are a few ways to approach things. Typically, if you are going to be doing a lot of hikes and moving around, you want to consider how hot your body usually runs during activity. Dress for the hike and activity you are going to be doing, bring extra layers as needed. If you are normally a colder individual, additional layers worn or packed in your bag are a good idea. If you are a warmer individual (I am in this camp), pack another lightweight layer in your bag, just in case. It is better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. This is typically a thin down puffy or a long sleeve thermal. You can also include vests as mid-layers; they’re a good option when you’re debating adding another layer or going without. If you’re deciding between an insulated shell and an uninsulated shell, choose the uninsulated one. It will have more use cases outside of winter.

I start with three layers, as noted above, and add (or pack) additional layers as needed. The mid-layers can be a combination of thermals and a hoodie, even long sleeve tee shirts (not cotton!).

My Current Kit (Off Trail Technical)

I wear a combination of the items listed below based on the conditions, location, and requirements of the hike. These are all items that I own and can vouch for. Note that this setup is for technical hiking and backpacking, emphasizing warmth to weight and packability. My hikes average 5-10 miles on shorter trips, and 15+ on longer trips. This works for me and is what I use in the field. You do not need to have the exact items, but I recommend the base layers, mid-layers, and hardshell or an insulated shell as a bare minimum.

Base-layers are an essential item. I use merino wool base layers for two reasons: they are lightweight, and they keep you warm when they are damp. A nice merino wool base layer will also wick sweat and moisture away from your body. Some people double these up. I choose to wear a merino wool base layer with a Capilene shirt over the top of it. Patagonia makes these and they work wonders for high output activities. They wick sweat, they are comfortable, and they act as a good buffer between your mid-layer and base-layer.

Mid-layers are your insulation. This can be fleece, or a synthetic puffy with a shell over it. You can use any combination you need to get the desired warmth here. I have used everything from the items listed below to everyday hoodies and sweatshirts. The only reason I do not use them currently is because they are not as packable as what I use now. Remember, I am looking for weight to warmth and packability. This is where you are going to get into more expensive items based on their warmth to weight ratio if that is important to you.

I will include a synthetic down puffy for my coldest adventures as my outer layer in dry conditions with little to no wind. It is important to note that you should only wear feather down when you are static. Hiking in feather down will often cause you to get too hot and sweat. Feather down will lose its insulating qualities once wet. Synthetic down is best for active pursuits, as it maintains its insulating power when wet or damp. If you are going to wear synthetic down while active, it should be the exterior layer right before the shell. If compressed between layers, synthetic down will compress over time and eventually lose some of its insulating qualities. I will only use my feather down jacket when I’m static and taking a break, or once I’ve set up camp.

My standard set up is the Outdoor Research Merino 150 hoodie, Patagonia Capilene cool base layer, the Patagonia R1 fleece mid layer, Patagonia Nano Puff, and the Norrøna Falketind. This is good for when temperatures are above 30º, up to around 50º. Beyond 50º, you will want to consider dropping layers because you will be too warm. When temperatures are in this range, I often pack a second R1 fleece in my bag as well, just in case, for when the daily highs plummet around sunrise and sunset. When the weather dips below 20º, I wear the R2 and R1 fleece together; I use the Nano Puff as the outer layer, and use the Norrøna Trollveggen Gore Tex Pro Light jacket as my shell.

It’s important to note that both of the Norrøna jackets listed here are waterproof, windproof ultralight shells, not insulated jackets. If you are debating between an insulated shell and an uninsulated shell, get the uninsulated one. The uninsulated shell has more uses outside of winter and works in the shoulder seasons, even summer if it breathes well enough. I own an insulated shell that I typically leave in the car with me, just in case.

Another note about shells - Buy a bright color. Seriously, it is not about fashion; it is about survival. Dark colors are not what you want to be wearing out there. If something happens and you need to be rescued, you need to be seen. My Norrøna Trollveggen is high-vis blue, and my North Face Mountain Jacket is high-vis red for this reason. It makes finding you that much easier when rescuers can spot you. Many people have gotten lost off-trail around the Great Lakes, and because they wore dark colors, rescuers did not find them until spring. Red, orange, yellow, and blue are some of the easiest colors to spot from the air.

For complex technical pursuits, I transition to ultralight mid-layers. These are specialized, high performance ultralight fleece items that place warmth to weight first. Most people probably do not need these, but if you want to get one, I highly recommend them. They need a shell to be effective. Without a shell, they will breathe too much and will not keep you warm. When considering options, people claim two 60s are warmer than a single 120, but I find 90 an excellent compromise. I have not worn two 60s at once to test this, but can confirm that a single 90 is quite warm.

Base layers:

• Patagonia - Long Sleeve Capilene Cool Lightweight Shirt

• Outdoor Research - Alpine Onset Merino 150 Hoodie

• Brynje - Super Thermo Zip

• Svala - Merino Extreme Round-Neck

Mid-Layers (Fleece - Normal activity):

• Patagonia - R1 Hoody

• Patagonia - R2 Tech face Hoody

• Mountain Hardware - Air mesh Hoody

Mid-layers (Ultralight - High output activity, shell required):

• Senchi Designs A90 Half Zip

• Norrøna Lyngen Alpha90 Jacket

• Norrøna Falketind Alpha 120 Zip Hood

Down puffy jackets:

• Patagonia - Nano Puff (Synthetic Down - Doubles as outer layer if needed)

• Feathered Friends - Eos (Feather Down - Static use only)

Hardshells:

• The North Face - Gore-Tex Mountain Jacket (Insulated hard shell)

• Norrøna - Trollveggen Gore-Tex Pro Light Jacket (Winter hard shell)

• Norrøna - Falketind Gore-Tex Jacket (Shoulder season hard shell)

LOWER BODY

This was probably what took me the longest to get right. If any of you are like me, I hate blue jeans and denim. It is terrible as an insulator and is highly restrictive. The cold makes both worse. I tried technical hiking pants, insulated hiking pants, just about every variant of winter snow pants I could find. I was unsatisfied with everything I found. Until I tried sweat pants! A combination of long Johns, sweatpants, and a hardshell pant or snow pants allows me to move freely and comfortably throughout the winter landscape.

In the same way we layer the upper body, do the same with your lower body based on the activity ahead. The lower body is something that you need to experiment with to find what works best for you. I like sweat pants and long Johns because they are light, comfortable, and fit nicely under a waterproof shell. If you are using insulated snow pants, in my experience, you can get away without the long Johns.

Base layers for lower body:

• Fjallraven - Bergtagen Thinwool Long Johns

• Norrøna - Lofoten Corespun UII Longs

• Norrøna - Femund pureUll Longs

Mid layers for lower body:

• Patagonia R2 TechFace Pants

• Fjallraven Keb Insulated Trousers

• Norrøna Trollveggen Warmwool 2 stretch tights

Shells/ snow pants for lower body:

• Killtec - Enosh

• Norrøna - Trollveggen Gore-Tex Pro Light Pants

HAT, GLOVES, SOCKS

Warm fingers and toes. Possibly one of the most important aspects of winter hikes! I recall my February hiking trip to Minnesota’s North Shore in 2021. There was one morning where my toes were so cold I was certain that frostbite was imminent. Thankfully, I was able to warm up and avoid any major complications. However, it was a brutal lesson in being prepared and having the right gear. It is one thing when your toes or fingers get cold, when they go numb and tingly, you are in dangerous territory.

What is worse, this is a guaranteed creativity killer. Once you are cold, or your fingers and toes hurt, your creativity is done. All you can focus on is getting warm and the pain that you are in. If there is one thing that you do not go cheap on, it is this. Believe it or not, a good hat and quality gloves will make you feel much warmer overall. It will help you stay focused on getting the best out of your winter images!

Headwear is a really up to you. Some like the wild-looking bomber style hats of the 30s. Others are fine with a normal winter hat. I prefer wool; it keeps you warm even if it is wet. I always have a helmet with me when I am solo’ing the shoreline or ice laden areas just in case. I have fallen a few times in my life and hit my head pretty hard. Thankfully, I was with someone and could get help. On solo pursuits, I don’t care how funny it looks; I wear it. You are the only person who you have to rely on out there, if you are not conscious in an emergency… well. You know what happens next. I wear a lined and insulated helmet to stay warm, and it fits ski goggles for windy lake days.

Gloves are going to be a choice for everyone. Me? I opted for a layering system just like my upper and lower body. I wear Black Diamond lightweight gloves under Hestra mittens. The mittens have insulation, but you can remove the insulated liner on warmer days. I devised this system after many failed attempts with fingered gloves, fingerless gloves, and combination mittens. Beyond a certain temperature, fingered gloves just don’t work anymore. Your hands don’t make enough heat to keep the glove functional under extreme conditions. When the temps are above 30º with little to no wind, I might opt for normal gloves. But in extreme cold, mittens all the way.

I am picky about socks. Really picky. Probably a little too picky, ask my wife. But I digress. I have found that Darn Tough Vermont socks are about as good as you can get. They are warm, comfortable, and come in a wide variety to fit different needs. Next up, water socks… ok they are not actually called that, they are neoprene socks but they are waterproof and they will keep your feet warm in cold water. These things are amazing if you are planning to stand in the water, yes, even in winter, and wanting to stay warm. I have two pairs, a large and an extra large version. I use the extra large in winter so I can fit wool socks underneath of them. In the shoulder seasons, early spring, late fall, the large keep me plenty warm and dry. I also have a pair of their water pants for those dedicated moments where getting in the water beyond knee level is necessary, but I don’t know that I would recommend them as an “every day” option. They don’t get nearly as much use as the socks, anyway.

Headwear:

• Turtle Fur - Superfine Merino MaxClava

• Fjallraven - 1960 Logo Hat - Wool

• Smith - Maze MIPS - Helmet for technical climbing / hiking

Gloves:

• Black Diamond - Lightweight Screentap - Inner

• Hestra - Army Leather Altitude Mitt - Outer shell

Socks:

• Darn Tough Vermont - Men's Hiker Boot Full Cushion Midweight Hiking Sock

• NRS Boundary Socks (L and XL - Get a size up for winter or cold weather so you can wear wool socks underneath)

Water Shoes

• NRS Kicker Wetshoe

• NRS Workboot Wetshoes

• Merrell Hydro Moc Water Shoe (Shoulder season & summer only)

FOOTWEAR, SPIKES & SNOWSHOES

Often overlooked, but not to be forgotten (seriously, put them in your car and leave them in there!). Yes, I leave my boots, spikes, and snowshoes in the car once the snow flies. You never know when you are going to need them, and again, it is better to have and not need than to need and not have. The only time of year that I wear boots is winter, otherwise it is shoes all day every day. You will need to make the choice that works best for you in that regard. I do wear shoes in winter sometimes, but they need to be waterproof and you need to wear thick socks to stay warm.

As far as spikes go, just get the Kahtoola’s. They are actual spikes and not wound metal springs. The spikes provide way more traction out on the trails. The wound metal spring style of other manufacturers is simply not enough for hiking in the Great Lakes. It is not a matter of if you will slip, only how many times. If you want to step up to the next level above MicroSpikes, look into crampons. This is not something I would necessarily recommend for everyone, but they certainly help for technical ascents and descents.

If I know there is going to be serious terrain, I am bringing crampons. I typically use them in areas with very thick ice, or when I am tackling technical terrain that will require climbing or descending in spots. Other than these uses, they are a bit overkill unless you are actually climbing ice.

Snowshoes are a personal preference and are sized based on the weight you will be carrying while using them. If you are going to be hiking in areas that get heavy snow, these are essential and should not be considered optional. A long hike is that much more strenuous when you are having to pull your leg up over the snow to take that next step, snowshoes eliminate that problem. As you consider a set, weigh yourself, your fully loaded camera bag, and the winter hiking clothes you plan to use then add ten pounds just in case. Use that number to get an idea of what weight range your snowshoes will need to be. I am 180 Lbs, with my winter pack fully loaded with my camera gear I am closer to 200, and I consider my max weight on the trail to be 225 lbs. I got the longer ones to help keep me supported and floating over the snow. Make sure you read the manufacturers recommended weight bearing guidelines before purchasing a set!

Footwear:

• Salomon Toundra Pro CSWP (Boots)

• OnCloud Cloudrock Trek WP (Boots)

• OnCloud Low WP (Shoes)

Spikes:

• Kahtoola Micro Spikes

Crampons:

• Petzl Sarken

Snowshoes:

• MSR Lightning Ascent 30”

STABILITY & SUPPORT

The gadgets that get you there and back again. Sometimes, they may even save your life. These are items that I have purchased over the years, and something that I think all hikers should carry regardless of what time of year it is. Seriously. Don’t be that person who thinks they know everything and will never face a challenge in the wilderness. Things happen, mistakes happen, things fully out of your control happen. Don’t die because you are too proud to admit that a map and compass are excellent tools to carry, or because you did not need a GPS device because you know where you are going. Think safe, be safe, get home safe.

To start this off, trekking poles. I don’t go anywhere without them. I highly recommend getting a quality set right up front and learn how to use them. They are way more of an upgrade than most people might realize and double as a sword in case you find a bear! (Just kidding… but it might work).

Most cell phones can double as a GPS device, and phones are integrating satellite messaging to allow for communication in the backcountry. The technology is in its infancy, though. And my experience (iPhone 16 ProMax) is this: it works… sometimes. The texts send, receiving them can be a different story. Overall, I personally cannot recommend relying on a phone at this time as a GPS device or a communication device. Maybe in the future that will change. Call me old school, but a dedicated GPS is critical for my peace of mind out there. Of course, I always bring a map and compass too. The nice thing about the Garmin GPS units is that the InReach models can send an SOS beacon in the event of an emergency, and they can text! Absolutely outstanding system, I highly recommend it.

Lighting is another essential item. Seriously, don’t use your cell phone for this. If you are doing real backcountry hikes, a cell phone is not enough. I too love my smartphone for a lot of things, but survival and essential items are not one of them. I carry a headlamp and a handheld flashlight. Having a headlamp is great because it moves with me as I look around. Having a handheld light is great for throwing light far distances. This is critical when you are out there trying to spot something distant in the dark, or if you need to signal help.

The last few items are more preference and something that you will need to decide is right for you or not. First, the personal locator beacon. This is a device that, once activated, broadcasts your position to search and rescue in the event of an emergency. The device lacks two-way communication and should only be used in a genuine emergency. I carry one just in case I lose my GPS, it dies, or I am out of cell range and cannot reach help. They are pricey, but they are worth it.

Early in my hiking days, my dad taught me something he learned in the Marine Corps. Keep essential items on you just in case you drop your pack, lose your pack, or have to dump it for whatever reason. I wear a chest pack and keep my personal locator beacon inside of it, my map, compass, a headlamp, a pack of waterproof matches, and my car keys. Of course, this is hike dependent, too. If you are going out for an afternoon at your local park, you probably won’t need all that. However, it is up to you. My general rule is anything that requires me to cross water, ice, deep snow, or if I am alone in a remote area, the small pack comes with me. Hopefully it never happens, but if you fall into a river and need to drop your pack to reach the surface, all your stuff is going to the bottom of the river. If your phone, map, compass, car keys, and everything else are in there… you are out of luck. If you set your pack down and get hurt, you still have essential rescue items on you. All things that you would carry on you anyway, they are just separated for ease of access and safety. See where I am going with this? Sure, it is extra weight, but seriously, if an extra pound means I make it back home to see my family, I am carrying it. There are those out there who frown on this, and that is ok. If the situation arises, you’ll be thankful you are prepared. Or, as my dad always said, “if it looks stupid and it works, it isn’t stupid.” Another nice thing about these packs, you can store batteries in there to keep them warm in the winter, or filter kits, cleaning cloths, blowers, all kinds of little things for easy access in the winter!

Trekking poles:

• Black Diamond Trail Ergo Cork

• Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork

GPS device:

• Garmin InReach GPS Map 67i

Flashlights:

• Black Diamond Storm 500R

• Petzl Aktic Core

• Soffrin IF22A

Personal locator beacon:

• ACR ResQLink 400

Bear spray:

• Frontiersman Bear Spray

Chest pack:

• Helikon Tex Chest Pack Numbat

• Hazard 4 Covert Escape

FOOD & WATER

The last thing that you want to have happen to you is to have your water freeze, or your stove not light when needed. This is where creativity really shines, not in our photography, but in our own approach to the challenges of winter. This is one of those things that you are going to need to experiment with to find what works best for you. I added this to the post because I’ve experienced difficulties with this in the past, and it can cause various problems if you are not ready.

First, water. My recommendation here is to bring hot water with you to the trailhead in a thermos or insulated container, then dump it into a Nalgene at the trailhead. Not boiling hot, but decently hot water. It is important to note that you should only do this with the Tritan model of the Nalgene bottle. Once you have filled up the bottle, you can do one of two things that have worked for me in the past. You can place the bottle upside down in a sock with hand warmers at the bottom of the sock to help keep the bottle warm, then place it in an outside pocket of your bag. Because the bottle is upside down, any ice that does form will be at the bottom of the bottle when you go to get a drink. Alternatively, you can place it inside your bag with hand warmers in the sock wrapped up in an extra layer you are storing in your bag. The plus side to this method is it will keep your extra layer warm if you need to use it. Either method works, but having it inside your bag is going to work best. Just make sure the lid is on tight! To prevent water from freezing when camped overnight, bury your water bottle in the snow. I know it sounds crazy. But I promise, it works.

For food, I pack for the adventure I have ahead. If I am only going to be out for an afternoon or evening, I usually bring one meal and some energy bars or small, easily packed snacks. Think beef jerky, peanuts, sometimes a candy bar too. For all day adventures or treks that are well into the backcountry, I pack one meal for each major mealtime, and include an extra just in case. You never know how hungry you are going to get, and if something happens, you want to have food on you.

To cook the meals, you are going to need water and a stove. This is where you will need to decide what works best for you. Really, it is just about what you feel like carrying. I have two camp stoves I use interchangeably throughout the year, but in winter, my primary stove is the MSR Windburner Duo. It is a solid piece of kit and is reliable against the harsh throws of winter. Especially the wind. You can use this to melt snow and replenish your water in a pinch too, but make sure you boil the water before drinking it.

Water Bottle:

• Nalgene Tritan + Wool sock and hand warmers.

Stove:

• MSR Pocket Rocket 2

• MSR Windburner Duo

Trail Meals:

• Good To Go brand - All organic and natural. Pad Thai is the best one, followed by Mushroom Risotto! Breakfast hash is ok too - Bring hot sauce.

• Velveeta Mac & Cheese cups - The microwave kind can take boiling water from your stove, just let it sit and viola! Also good with hot sauce.

• Good ol’ PB&J!

CLOSING THOUGHTS

This is what I use to get myself there and back again. I highly recommend trying out different items and seeing how you like them. You can head over to a local REI, or even order things online and try them out, then return them if you don’t like them. Most manufacturers have a 30 day return window. If you have questions about a specific item or a specific piece of gear, reach out! I am happy to answer questions within my ability to help you on your gear journey too.

Take care everyone!